Kula slipped away from the Nanaimo dock this morning beneath dark winter skies, a soft, moody backdrop that only added to the calm, mirror-like waters ahead. With no wind and excellent visibility, it was a perfect day for wildlife watching. We pointed our bow south toward the Gulf Islands after receiving reports of humpback blows near Dodd Narrows. With conditions this calm, it didn’t take long before we spotted our very first towering blow at the mouth of Dodd… and then a second one appeared.

Dodd Narrows is one of the busiest waterways in the region, funnelling everything from kayakers and fishing vessels to tugboats and massive barges through its narrow, fast-flowing channel. Knowing this, and wanting to give our whales plenty of space to navigate the passage safely, we chose to take a brief detour. We made our way over to the Harmac log booms, a favourite haul-out spot for sea lions, while our humpbacks made their way through the Narrows undisturbed.

As we approached the booms, we were jolted into a moment of wild drama: a bald eagle swooped in and successfully hunted a gull right before our eyes. Even our seasoned crew gasped. This was nature in its rawest form, unfolding just meters away.

Once the excitement settled, the familiar sound of sea lions took center stage. The California Sea Lions were, as always, loud and theatrical, with several enormous Steller Sea Lions adding their deep, thunderous roars to the chorus.

California Sea Lions can reach speeds of over 25 km/h underwater and are incredibly agile, hence all the acrobatic splashing on the booms.
Steller Sea Lions, the largest of all sea lion species, can weigh as much as a small car, with males reaching up to 2,500 lbs.

Both species return to these haul-outs throughout the fall and winter to rest between feeding bouts in the Strait of Georgia. After enjoying their antics, we made our way back toward the Narrows to reconnect with our humpbacks. By then, the pair had split up. On the north side of Dodd, we found Uluka (BCX1702), travelling steadily at around 6 knots, quite a brisk pace for a humpback. Their companion had continued south through the Narrows, though we weren’t able to get an ID before they slipped out of view.

Uluka, meanwhile, chose the scenic route, travelling along the stunning Gabriola Bluffs. These dramatic cliffs are not only beautiful but ecologically important. Their sheer faces provide essential nesting habitat for cormorants, who rely on ledges and sheltered crevices for raising their chicks. Other seabirds, gulls, swallows, and pigeon guillemots also use this rugged coastline as part of their foraging territory. Seeing Uluka travelling against this backdrop was nothing short of breathtaking.

After following them for some time, we left Uluka to continue toward what we suspect was their next feeding area in the Strait of Georgia. With calm seas on our side, we shifted back into search mode, scanning along Gabriola’s shoreline.

We made a quick stop at one of our favourite spots, “Stinky Rocks”, where a group of Steller Sea Lions were crowded together on the limited real estate left by the high tide. Their quarrels over the best sunning ledges were full of chest-bumping and deep bellowing. Nearby, a flock of Surf Scoters drifted past. If you’ve ever heard them take flight, you’ll know their wings make a distinctive whistling sound, almost like a chorus of tiny kazoos buzzing just above the waves!

Continuing southeast along Valdez Island, our sharp-eyed captain spotted a distant blow near Polier Pass. As we approached, we discovered another pair of humpbacks: Hale-Bopp (BCX1278) and BCX0158 calf 2022. Unlike Uluka and their friend, these two stuck close together, moving in beautiful synchrony, likely feeding cooperatively. They hugged the shoreline, possibly using the steep underwater drop-off to help corral schooling fish. The presence of numerous sea lions along the same stretch of coast was another clue that prey was abundant today.

With the water utterly calm, their blows echoed across the stillness of the Strait, carrying far across the glassy surface. After watching this gentle duo drift offshore and continue their travels, we carried on with ours. With plenty of daylight left, we ventured east toward Vancouver, scanning the Strait for more whale activity. No additional blows appeared on the horizon, so we eventually turned back toward Nanaimo, content with the incredible encounters we’d already had.

We glided back into the harbour just as the rain finally began to fall, perfect timing, as it had kindly held off for the entire tour. Winter days on the water are always full of surprises, and today delivered them in every direction: hunting eagles, boisterous sea lions, winter seabirds, and three humpback whales each writing their own story in the Salish Sea!

Enjoy the photos below taken by Vanessa Vereschahen and Val Watson.

November 14, 2025 - A calm day in the Salish Sea with some gentle giants